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Budweiser: Unii cu hameiul, alţii cu… "mălaiul"

telalîcuri, în România se poate @ 26 September 2007

Articol apărut în Adevărul de azi, în noua mea rubrică, găzduită în pagina de media realizată de Petre Barbu:

Glorii de galantar
Budweiser: Unii cu hameiul, alţii cu… “mălaiul”

de Florin Dumitrescu

De cîteva zile un clip filmat de amatori face turul online al companiilor şi campusurilor. E o parodie a simpaticei reclame la Budweiser, de data asta în varianta cu moldoveni.

Cu ce se amuză miile de participanţii la această campanie virală spontană (pe cît se pare, dezinteresată comercial)? Ce îi determină să trimită „haioşenia” mai departe amicilor, în stil arborescent? Bunăoară faptul că, în loc să strige, ca în spotul american, wassup (în argoul populaţiei de culoare what’s up? – ce mai faci?), moldovenii din aşa-zisa „caterincă” strigă şi faşi; în loc să vadă meciul la televizor, contemplă mioritic stelele; şi în loc să folosească telefoane, interfoane şi alte derivaţii cu sau fără fir, precum afro-americanii dezabuzaţi din reclama originală, moldovenii îşi urlă unul altuia de-a dreptul, prin eterul patriei… O diferenţă încă şi mai mare este aceea că, dacă eroii iniţiali beau o bere reală, căreia îi spun Bud (prescurtare-alintare a lui Budweiser), românaşii se prefac că beau o licoare fictivă, Budăi… De la realizatorii cvasi-folclorici ai „caterincii”, pînă la cel mai recent destinatar al ei, românii care se bucură de varianta naţională a reclamei de peste mări au apreciat-o la vremea ei şi pe aceasta, fără a-i cîntări miza concretă, mercantilă. Ce pare să fi contat mai mult este dorinţa de a fi şi noi, moldo-vlahii, acolo, în şirul de pastişe declanşat de spotul Wassup iniţial: cu japonezi, cu băbuţe, cu yuppioţi, cu papagali vorbitori şi chiar cu extratereştri! Acest home-video moldav poate avea cel mult scopul prezentarii unui nou grup umoristic… Nicio clipă internauţii români, care rîd de replica „beau un Budăi”, nu s-au gîndit că…
Există Budweiser şi aici, în România (ca să nu zic Europa central-orientală)! E vorba de Budvar-ul cehesc, disponibil în marile magazine şi e vorba într-adevăr de cu totul altă băutură, în pofida numelui asemănător, cvasi-identic (Budvar fiind prescurtarea de la Budejovicky Pivovar – Berăria din Budweis).
Cu totul altceva pretindeau, acum un veac şi jumătate, imigranţii germani în SUA Carl Conrad şi Adolphus Busch, atunci cînd au hotărît să producă şi în Lumea Nouă berea din Budweis-ul natal (numele nemţesc al oraşului Budejovice, aflat azi în Cehia), după exact aceeaşi reţetă pe care şi-o transmit generaţiile de berari budweis-eni încă din secolul al XIII-lea, cînd au primit de la regele Otakar II încuviinţarea de a produce bere. Peste veacuri, berarii imigranţi i-au zis licorii nou produse tot Budweiser (bere de Budweis), tocmai ca să marcheze pretinsa continuare a tradiţiei! Astfel, în timp ce în bătrîna Europă se producea mai mult sau mai puţin artizanal celebrul lager* cunoscut şi recunoscut ca „bere de Budweis” în vreo 40 de berării din partea locului, întreprinzătorii Conrad şi Busch s-au gîndit să se adapteze legislaţiei din patria adoptivă şi să înregistreze marca Budweiser (lucru de neconceput în vechiul continent, unde e de ajuns să fii din Faenza, ca să produci faianţă; să fii din Champagne ca să faci şampanie; sau să fii din Pleşcoi ca să prepari cîrnaţi de Pleşcoi). Aşa se face că Budweiser este marcă înregistrată din 1878, cînd deja se declară „King of Beer”.
În 1911, producătorul american
Anheuser-Busch, deja un gigant al pieţei la acea vreme, şi berarii cehi de la Budweiser Budvar (denumire de origine standardizată în 1895) semnează un pact de neagresiune, prin care îşi împart ariile de influenţă şi se învoiesc să folosească denumirea comercială Budweiser fiecare pe piaţa alocată sieşi. Prohibiţia din America anilor ’30, anti-germanismul din timpul şi din preajma celui de-al Doilea Război Mondial şi, mai nou, lupta globală a producătorilor şi brand-urilor au făcut vechea înţelegere caducă. Azi Budweiser-ul american şi Budweiser Budvar se află în litigiu comercial. Victoriile juridice, de o parte şi de alta, sînt provizorii şi neconcludente. În fapt se află în luptă două principii diferite: pe de o parte cel tradiţional, al denumirii geografice; şi pe de altă parte cel modern, industrial, al mărcii înregistrate.
Aşa că azi avem o excelentă bere cehească, în al cărui nume se difuzează o excelentă publicitate americănească. Ironia face ca berile din spatele acestor etichete asemănătoare să aibă gust destul de diferit. Varianta americană reprezintă un produs fasonat după gustul amestecat al americanilor, de toate rasele şi culturile. E ca o pizza americană cu mălai! E ca un şniţel cu Coca-Cola!! E inovaţie vîndută ca tradiţie!!! De fapt, nu mai e un Budweiser ca atare – e un Bud: mai uşor de pronunţat, mai uşor de băut,… mai uşor în general. Şi la cît de simpatică e reclama – cum poţi să îi ţii ranchiună?

* Mulţumiri lui Călin care mi-a amintit că Budweiser-ul cehesc e lager, nu pilsen.

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